Food of Jerusalem—Is That For Here or To Go?

May 09, 2013
By Holly Jennings

Basic Hummus

 

“I want to take Jerusalem food outside,” I’d said excitedly to Mike and Otto (boyfriend and cat, respectively) about ten days ago when we finally got our first glimpse of spring in Vermont.

 

This simple idea hit me like sudden blinding ray of light. I would start on the front porch and then, like the movable gnomes in the movie Amélie, I would take the food of Jerusalem on the road to various picnic spots around the state, or at least around town, to show you my environs. It would get me out of the house—it’s been a LONG winter—and challenge my photography skills.

 

I need things to get a little bit messy. When you routinely photograph inside in a controlled setting with light that know intimately from hour to hour, as I’ve been doing all winter, you can get into a rut of standardization. Besides Jerusalem authors Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi say that more than anything, their food takes its cue from places where the sun is shining. (Watch and listen up here.) So why not be out and in it?

 

* * * * * * * * * * * * * *

 

I started with the Basic Hummus recipe and our front porch. Ever since first hearing of the cookbook Jerusalem, and then verifying that the book includes a recipe for hummus, I’ve been very curious to know if the book’s hummus recipe is similar to that served at an Israeli-run restaurant in NYC called the Hummus Place. The first time I ate there, back in 2005, my hummus eating bar was flung sky high. I ordered the Hummus Fava, and I’ve never strayed. In that version—one of five served at the restaurant—the incredibly smooth and creamy and richly flavorful tahini-y hummus is topped with whole fava beans, tahini sauce, hard-boiled egg, olive oil, and spices. (See photo of Hummus Fava here.)

 

One day, our server asked if we like spicy condiments. “Oh, yes.” She returned with a very small bowl of a bright green coarsely ground herby mixture whose spicy flavor was difficult to pinpoint: It was kind of tasted like cilantro, and kind of like parsley, but not exactly like either. The reason, I learned on my next visit during which time I also learned the condiment’s name (“zhoug”), is that it combines cilantro and parsley along with garlic, chili peppers, various spices.

 

The Basic Hummus from Jerusalem IS like the hummus from Hummus Place, and both zhougs are equally good; though, chili peppers being relative, the zhoug from the cookbook is decidedly spicier than the zhoug I had at the restaurant. The Jerusalem recipes can be found online: the hummus on NPR’s site (where you can also hear the podcast of an interview with the authors) and the zhoug in Google Books. (Once in Google Books, search for “zhoug.” The recipe in original British publication using metric weights will come up.)

 

Jerusalem has gotten an amazing amount of attention from the press and from your everyday blogger, like me. With the number of recipes from the book foundable online, whether used verbatim with permission granted, adapted, or simply used as is with no apparent permission granted, it’s a wonder that print cookbooks are a viable option for publishers. Yet, they are. At least for now.

 

One way to counter the online avalanche of recipes is to create a pleasurable object experience. Nigel Slater’s Ripe, a previous DCCC pick, accomplishes this. Jerusalem accomplishes it with gorgeous food and location photography—the former done by the same photographer of Ripe, by the way—and a cushy binding (descriptor compliments of DCCC member Tamara). And of course not all of the 120 recipes in Jerusalem are available online.

 

My first attempt at showing you a bit of my environs is the photograph at the top of this posting, taken a few days ago. There it is. Ottolenghi and Tamimi’s basic hummus with a healthy side of zhoug. But my macro lens, so adept at rendering close-up shots of food, isn’t so good at showing the context of food. Take it from me, the house across the street beyond the porch railing is charming, and lucky for us but not our neighbors, much nicer to look at than our rental. Since that photo was taken it’s become gray and rainy again, and much cooler. But that is just a temporary setback to my food excursion plans.

 


0 Comments to “Food of Jerusalem—Is That For Here or To Go?”


  1. Sunshine itself! And the photo makes me want to dip a dozen pita triangles into the creamy hummus. I have made the hummus and it is delicious with strong notes of the nutty tahini.
    I am excited to be cooking from this book and have already made the fish kebabs, which are not on skewers and the turkey and zucchini slider size burgers that are moist and perfect. Planning the weekend menu now! Maybe I will take it onto the deck.

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  2. Yeah. Yeah. Take it out on the deck. You’re right about the strong tahini notes in the hummus. Along with using dried chick peas, using the baking soda, and letting the processor go at it for a while, the amount of tahini seems to be one of the main differences between the typical hummus made in the US (and to how I was making it previously). It seems like the recipe uses about twice as much tahini as your standard recipes found online or elsewhere. Do you think so, too? Enjoy the sun when it returns. And thanks for the feedback on the book. So far, all reports have been excellent.

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  3. Selby Davis says:

    Rays el hangout was new to me also a couple of years ago. I used it in a fabulous Moroccan Chicken Pie,and also pears poached in an orange caramel sauce with it. YUM! Congratulations on your new member, Karen Deyle Miller! She is a friend from the Rochester area where I reside in Le Roy, birthplace of Jell- O ( invented by my great uncle).,,

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  4. You must miss Karen, Selby. Both those dishes sound wonderful for ras el hanout ideas and the pear in particular sounds very unusual. Cool family food pedigree you’ve got there. I sense there’s more to that story . . .

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